I have had 10 visits to Wellington this year. Unfortunately, not all have been for pleasure. But whatever the reasons for my trips, New Zealand's capital always charms me. Its architecture exudes character and appeal, there is always a cultural gem to attend and the cafés and restaurants are some of the best in the country. On a fine day — not as rare as its reputation suggests — Wellington is the best little city in the world. 

Wellington claims to have more restaurants and cafés per head of population than New York, a claim that I find quite credible.

My new favourite café is Floriditas (161 Cuba Street, Wellington, ph 04 381 2212), although obviously it has been a favourite of many others for many years. It's the closest I've gotten to a Parisienne-style café for some time. The décor is tasteful and unpretentious, the food full of flavour and reasonably priced. Their enticing egg dishes are drawcards but the menu also offers a range of temptations including fabulous bakes prepared in their own bakery.

Another favourite is The General Practitioner (cnr Willis and Boulcott Streets, Wellington ph 04 499 6001) named as such because in 1903, the building was constructed as a live-in doctors' surgery. Now the rambling three stories is a restaurant offering an inspirational but casual menu including wild foods. On a recent visit, my Hare & Black Pudding Ragout was served in a rather unique shaped bowl. I carefully snuck a look at the label on the base on the off-chance I might be able to find something similar. 

After lunch we walked to my all-time favourite food store, Moore Wilson (cnr of Tory and College Streets, ph 04 384 9906). It's not 'just' a multi-storied store selling an exotic choice of fresh fish, meats, garden produce and groceries. It also offers wines, beers, spirits, children's toys, cookbooks, cooking utensils and tableware — for home and restaurant use. Lo and behold. There was the cute bowl I'd admired at The General Practitioner. I now have eight in my own kitchen collection.

If you're a foodie in the capital on a Sunday then a visit to the downtown City Market (8.30am-12.30pm) at Chaffer's Dock is a mouth-watering experience. Go early as parking is always at a premium. Established by award-winning chef Martin Bosley and Rachel Taulelei of the local seafood supply company Yellow Brick Road, the City Market incorporates a wide-ranging line-up of local foods and beverages — top quality fruits and veggies, the freshest of seafood, cupcakes, chocolates, bakes, wines, olive oils, sausages, salami, and Turkish delight are just some of the goodies that will lighten your wallet. And if you're lucky Martin Bosley himself will be cooking and serving up fabulous beer-battered fish and oysters or some other delicacy for you to enjoy.