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LONDON FARE

Put London on your travel menu. You don’t have to be a dedicated foodie to relish the buzz and cultural delights of the markets and restaurants. Smithfield (or the London Central Markets) — in Clerkenwell – is well worth a visit. The largest EU approved wholesale meat market in the UK, it is also the oldest, operating now for over 140 years. It covers over four hectares, on which stand some architecturally stunning buildings. The market has evolved and offerings now include an impressive assortment of deli foods. Trading commences at 3am and you should visit no later than 7am to enjoy the real action.

Close by in St John’s Lane, 39-year-old Kiwi expat Anna Hansen provides stylish breakfasts, lunches and dinners at The Modern Pantry seven days a week. The Pantry – a small, modern traiteur on the ground floor of a four-storied Georgian-style townhouse — serves inspired delicatessen dishes, sandwiches, soups, pastries, cakes and beverages to take away.

The first floor houses two elegant, light-filled dining rooms overlooking St John's Square. A set, NZ$40 two-course lunch — eg Feta, Gooseberry & Mint fritters, Feijoa & Green Pepper Relish plus Braised Artichokes with Devon Blue — is by London standards excellent value. Anna was one of Peter Gordon’s partners in The Providores in 2001. Her talent in providing ‘the exquisite’ has earned her a place in the world’s top 100 chefs in the foodie book Coco (Phaidon 2009).

Two interesting trends are changing the London food scene. The gastropub — pubs serving quality food. Clerkenwell’s Smiths of Smithfield is an excellent example. The second — the cafés and restaurants in church crypts.

We enjoyed The Restaurant at St Paul's Cathedral with its heavenly food and vaulted ceilings. One can choose from the very best of modern British (eg Portobello mushroom with Quail’s Egg and Truffle Dressing plus matching wine), or enjoy a quick snack or a traditional pastry from The Café.